Rear Brake line re-route

The idea behind this came from a few beers in the shed with a mate named Mark who suggested hiding the original VFR rubber rear brake line along the side or underneath the swingarm.

This discussion came about as I was considering a custom carbon-fibre or aluminium brake line holder/chain cover in place of the original enormous black plastic one.

After a few more beers … a closer look was taken and it dawned on me that I could run the brake line INSIDE the swingarm, completely out the way of the chain and visibility for a clean minimal look I was after with just swingarm, chain and wheel at the back.

A few beers can do quite a lot for the imagination.

I’m pretty happy with the result and it’s way out of the way of danger from rocks, chain, exhaust tubes, etc…

Feeder wire in place to test, yes this is with the original shock in place

Feeder wire in place to test

Note rectangular relief hole inside the swingarm wall next to the rear shock at the right hand front of the swingram? This is the exit point for the braided brake line from the rear slave cylinder.
A similar relief exists near the front on the chain side too.

Note swing-arm water drain relief hole available underneath just in front of rear axle shaft and hub. At roughly 12mm in diameter it’s the perfect place to enter a braided brake line from the rear slave cylinder and at a good angle to it also.

The braided line makes an easy curve under the swing-arm pivot and up next to the clutch cover.

A view from lower down … Note copper tube guide over braided line to prevent kinks and wear at the swing-arm exit.

Braided line fittings – standard brake line fittings available from many industrial hose shops. These are from H.I.S Hoses in Cambellfield, Melbourne. They are stainless fittings so no rust problems and are designed for automotive use. About $16 for each complete fitting. You’ll need 2 for the rear brake line and another 4 for the front lines. About 1m of plastic coated braided line was used in this rear line, it’s also available in uncoated but for the extra protection available from the plastic to reduce rubbing wear on the braid why would you not use it?

To fit fitting to line —->

1. Remove approx 20mm of plastic cover from the braided line end.

2. Pass the braided line through the end fitting.

3. Expand the wire braiding and pass the collar over the plastic inner tube. Ensure the collar is fully home on the plastic inner tube. Pardon the dirty fingeez

4. Insert the banjo mount section into the collar and into the tube. (no photo yet)

5. Lightly screw the fitting to the mount. (no photo yet)

5. Hold the outer fitting with a spanner. (no photo yet)

7. Tighten the ring on the banjo mount into the fitting until completely home, the fitting will tighten suddenly and completely. (no photo yet)

The new fitting is ready!! The inner collar has now been crimped onto the tube and banjo mount and tethered in place by the braid wire locked between the outer fitting.

This is how it looks when finished and mounted. Neat and tidy with enough spare braided line to move easily through all ranges of swing-arm movement.

Closer …

Closest …

Now for the slave cylinder fitting …

The copper tube is bent with a slight curve and passes inside the swing-arm through the drain hole. The curve is to reduce kinking the braided line inside the swing-arm. Extra braided line was fed into the swing-arm to allow slack on the inside.

The blue plastic below the copper tube is electrical heat-shrink tubing. It’s there to keep the copper guide tube in place.